Friday, August 21, 2009

Desert

Today it was a very early start as we drove all the way from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea, following the Jordan River along the way. There is a barbed fence travelling for miles and miles separating Israel from Jordan. We see many more soldiers here than any other place we've ever been.

Our first stop was Masada, where the Roman army set up camps to beseige the Jewish inhabitants in 72AD. It took the Romans many months to build the ramp that finally allowed them to make it up to the top. However, on the morning the Romans finally made it up, they discovered that 960 people had committed suicide to avoid being taken by the Romans. They did find 2 women and some children alive huddled into a corner. This was by far our hottest site so far, with temperatures exceeding 42C.

Our next stop was Ein Gedi. This is a Unesco heritage site. It is the place where King Saul was pursuing David, and David had the opportunity to kill Saul but didn't. We hiked up a very dry rocky path until we reached a waterfall and a spring. Snap snap pictures done then back down. Along the way Shmuel pointed out the type of bush that some people say had been used for Jesus' crown. Very small sharp thorns, not gigantic things as portrayed in movies.

Next was the site of Qumran, the remains of a community within sight of the caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. Just like we've seen in films.

Everyone was so hot and dusty by this time, and it was time for what everyone had been waiting for - a swim in the Dead Sea! It was impossible to swim, actually, and imperative that your head not go under the water. Anyone who accidentally swallows any of the water requires medical attention. The thing to do is lay back as if you are in a chair. Then of course find the mandatory mud and smear it all over you. I couldn't believe how soft my skin felt after the mud!!! But then we discovered it was because there was a layer of oil left over. After you get out of the Dead Sea, they have showers for you to get the salt and mud off. And of course, everyone has to purchase the beauty pack in the gift shop.

Then a drive through Jerusalem, where we dropped off our guide Shmuel because he is not comfortable crossing the wall into Bethlehem. For the next 2 days we will have a different guide, just for this side of the wall. The wall is tall and long, and checkpoints abound. We are let in pretty easily because we are a bus of tourists.

Our hotel (The Bethlehem Inn) was rather a surprise. Mike says it is for our spiritual formation. Most tour groups stay in Jerusalem and drive into Bethlehem for the day. Mike chose to stay in Bethlehem to support the local economy. Many Christians are struggling here. When we got to our room, we threw open the drapes to a lovely view of...... the wall!!! We can look down into the area past the wall. There's nothing down there. Our group are the only people staying in the hotel. When we took a shower, we discovered that it is impossible to keep the water inside the stall, and this is why there is a drainage hole in the middle of the bathroom floor. We very quickly learned not to wear socks into the bathroom. I guess we were rather spoiled at the last hotel, with our balcony view of the sunrise over the Sea of Galilee. Mike says after our 3 nights here, we will be in luxury once again at the Olive Tree Hotel in Jerusalem. We don't mind at all, it's all part of the adventure.

After dinner Mike took 7 of us adventurers on an hour's walk through downtown Bethlehem. Cities are quite alive here at night. Right across from the Church of the Nativity was a mosque where they were being called to prayer. There were only men in the area we saw. It is the first day of Ramadan today. For Ramadan the Muslims will fast from daybreak to sundown, not even allowing water to touch their lips. Mike treated all of us to a drink in an Arab bar where they went all out to make us comfortable, even carrying some tables outside for us to sit at. It was a very pleasant evening, and a lot of fun. I don't know why more people didn't go!

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