Jerusalem II

We had a very early start today, back into the Old City. I lost track of how many security checks we went through today. X ray machines and bag checks. Since we were so early and since there were no bar mitzvahs today, it was much easier to get up to the Western Wall, say our prayer, and take the mandatory picture.

Then we walked through the recent excavations they are doing under the city, esp under the Muslim quarter. What they have discovered is that the first century city is all 20 to 30 feet below the present city. When the Romans destroyed Jerusalem in 70 AD, it was eventually all covered in with dirt and built on top of. This is amazing to me. So when people say "This is where Jesus walked", technically where Jesus walked was directly beneath them much lower down. So we were standing directly beneath the Western Wall, and the wall actually continues underground for several stories. One stone block alone was the size of a city bus. Anton and I were actually able to touch the Western Wall side by side down there. He looked so cute in the paper beanie they made him wear. It kept wanting to blow away because of the fans. The girls didn't have to wear them. Payback for the guys getting the better Western Wall section above ground.

Next was the Dome of the Rock, under authority of the muslims even though built on the site of the Temple Mount. Again a security check done by Israelis, but a modesty check done by the Muslims. They were much tougher than the other ones we've been through. I was wearing my knee length skirt, so I wrapped my sarong around my legs, but they didn't like the sleeves on my t-shirt, so I had to borrow a scarf from Winnie to put around my shoulders. I felt like a mummy, and all the extra layers were hot! The funny thing was that other people wearing the same length t-shirt were not called out. The Dome was beautiful, built in the 600's, but tourists aren't allowed in anymore. Mike had to collect all the Bibles anybody had (about a dozen) and stay behind with them, because they were not allowed at the Dome. When security checked Winnie's bag, they found a cross and she got into a lot of trouble. Shmuel had to put it in his pocket and promise not to take it out. They don't want their site defiled in any way.

After the Dome was the site of the Pool of Bethesda, where Jesus healed the man who had been lame for 38 years. Get up, take up your mat and walk.

Next was the Lithostratus, where they used to think Jesus' trial took place, but now they have changed their minds. The reason we went there was to see the large ancient flagstones that were from the Roman period. One of the stones had a crown of thorns carved into it, so it is believed that the soldiers who did the crucifying were mocking the prisoners.

We had to walk the Via Dolorosa through the Suk to get to lunch. Behind us was a group of pilgrims who were carrying a cross from station to station, singing. I had never pictured the Via Dolorosa this way. It just winds through the market streets, which are quite narrow, and the 14 stations are mostly marked by small signs on the wall. According to Mike, some of the stations have chapels built into the shops.

After lunch they took us outside of the city to En Kerem, which is where Mary's cousin Elizabeth lived, and where Mary gave her "Magnificat" (a song of praise). Mary and Elizabeth spent time at the springs there. There is a church (of course) marking the Magnificat. Mary stayed with Elizabeth for 3 months and returned home.

Nearby is a place called Biblical Gardens, which has recreations of what life was like in Biblical times. The guide was an excellent story teller, and told us all about various plants and trees, what a tomb was like, how people were crucified, and how sheep were cared for. The garden area was so fragrant with herbs, the rosemary in particular was wonderful. There were big bushes of it, whereas I have given up trying to grow it at home. The hyssop was also nice.

Back to Jerusalem and the time that everyone had been begging for: time to shop in the Suk!!! Julias, our bus driver, dropped us right off at the Jaffa Gate and we were off! We headed directly to a vendor we had met yesterday. He (Sharif) actually remembered us, and since we came back, he gave me a bit of a deal on a silver Jerusalem cross and chain. Sebastian bought me my much coveted coca cola shirt. We shopped a bit more, t-shirts for the family and an ancient coin necklace for me, at a fantastic price because we literally only had 30 shekels left and couldn't offer him any more! Which reminds me, we really need an ATM tomorrow!

After dinner Mike showed a video presentation of his published "The Bible in 50 Minutes." It was a nice review of our trip.